FREE Sand Art Simple Ladies Cardigan Knitting Pattern

You can now follow my simple ladies’ cardigan knitting pattern in all sizes from XS to 5XL for free. Even confident beginners can enjoy learning how to knit this modern striped cardi with my easy, step-by-step instructions.

The Sand Art Cardigan Knitting Pattern

Meet your next favorite knit project. This simple ladies cardigan knitting pattern is completely free and graded for ladies in all sizes, ranging from XS to 5XL.

Designed with confident beginners in mind, it offers an easy and modern take on everyday knitwear. If you are learning how to tackle garments, this step by step design is the perfect place to start.

The body features a classic look, while the striking striped sleeves add a fun, contemporary twist. These long sleeves are perfect for using up scrap or advent calendar yarn for sleeves, giving the garment a unique, personalized pop of color.

The button up front makes it incredibly versatile, while the lightweight fabric ensures it is comfy, light, and airy. With a beautiful, flattering drape, you can wear this piece during any season.

How To Knit A Simple Cardigan For Ladies

If you want to learn how to construct a garment, this simple ladies cardigan knitting pattern makes the process incredibly easy.

Ideal for adventurous beginners, this modern pattern provides clear, step by step guidance to create a beautiful piece of clothing that fits flawlessly in all sizes from XS to 5XL. Best of all, the instructions are completely free to follow.

This cardigan is knit bottom up and worked completely flat throughout, making the construction wonderfully simple and stress-free.

To achieve its lightweight feel, you can use sport weight yarn, or substitute a combination of fingering and lace weight held together to create a stunning texture.

It is a fantastic project to practice your knitting skills and create a custom cardigan you can’t wait to wear.

Free Knit Pattern: Sand Art Cardigan

Pattern Information:

MATERIALS:

For my size large sample, I used The Autumn Acorn 4-ply yarn, fingering wt in 60% SW merino, 20% fine alpaca plus 20% nylon and The Autumn Acorn lace wt yarn in 70% mohair plus 30% silk held together.

YARN AMOUNTS:

1. 2 identical magic knot yarn balls, all sizes, one for each sleeve:
   
   377 (398, 449, 503, 531, 590, 517, 441, 449) yds/345 (364, 411, 460, 486, 539, 473, 403, 411)m/3 (3, 3.5, 4, 4.5, 4.5, 4, 3.5, 3.5) oz/86 (91, 103, 115, 122, 135, 118, 101, 103) g of multi-colored fingering wt/sock yarn; each yarn ball is identical.
   
   *To wind up your TWO magic knot yarn balls, use 10 yards/9 meters per color. I found it easiest to figure out how many times to wrap each color around your hand and then just count wraps to next join. Join your yarn colors together using the magic knot method.
   
2. 3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5) skeins / 948 (1053, 1170, 1300, 1430, 1573, 1730.3, 1903.33, 2093.663) yds/ 867 (963, 1070, 1188.5, 1307.5, 1438.5, 1582, 1740.5, 1914.5)m / 7.5 (8.5, 9.5, 10.5, 11.5, 12.5, 14, 15, 17) oz/ 213 (241, 269, 298, 326, 354, 397, 425, 482) g of fingering wt/sock yarn in MC.
3. 3 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7) skeins / 1338 (1487, 1652, 1836, 2020, 2222, 2444, 2688, 2957) yds/ 1223.5 (1359.5, 1510.5, 1679, 1847, 2032, 2235, 2458, 2704) m / 5 (5.5, 6.5, 7, 7.5, 8.5, 9.5, 10, 11.5) oz / 142 (156, 184, 200, 213, 241, 269, 283, 326) g of mohair silk yarn.

NEEDLES:

US 2.5/3 mm dpns, short circs or long circs for magic loop method + US 3/3.25 dpns, circs or long circs for magic loop method + circular needles with very long cable

NOTIONS:

5 buttons -3/4”/19 mm.
Darning needle and matching yarn, plus sewing needle and thread 4 stitch markers

GAUGE:

Sleeves: 7 sts + 8.5 rows = 1”/2.5 cm 28 sts + 34 rows = 4”/10 cm using larger needle with 1 strand of fingering wt yarn (for sleeves) combined with 1 strand of lace wt yarn in mohair-silk, in stockinette st, in the rnd, blocked.

Body: 6 sts + 8 rows = 1”/2.5 cm 24 sts + 32 rows = 4”/10 cm using larger needle with 1 strand of fingering wt yarn (for body) combined with 1 strand of lace wt yarn in mohair-silk, in stockinette st, flat, blocked.

SIZES:

XS (S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X)

CHEST MEASUREMENTS:

XS 28-30” (actual) with 2 – 4” positive ease (32” garment)
S 32-34” (actual) with 2 – 4” positive ease (36” garment)
M 36-38” (actual) with 2 – 4” positive ease (40” garment)
L 40-42” (actual) with 2 – 4” positive ease (44” garment)
1X 44-46” (actual) with 2 – 4” positive ease (48” garment)
2X 48-50” (actual) with 2 – 4” positive ease (52” garment)
3X 52-54” (actual) with 2 – 4” positive ease (56” garment)
4X 56-58” (actual) with 2 – 4” positive ease (60” garment)
5X 60-62” (actual) with 2 – 4” positive ease (64” garment)

GARMENT MEASUREMENTS:

Sizes and Finished Measurements after Blocking:

ABBREVIATIONS:

Approx – approximately
Beg – beginning
BOR – beginning of round
BO – bind off
Circs – circulars
CO – cast on
Dec – decrease
Double stitch – short row special stitch (see directions at short row section)
Dpns – double pointed needles
Inc – increase
K – knit
K2tog – knit two sts together as one
Ktbl – knit one st through the back loop
Kwise – knitwise
Lt – left
M1L – make one stitch left leaning
M1R – make one stitch right leaning
MC – main color
P – purl
PM – place marker
Pwise – purlwis
Rep – repeat
Rnd – round
RS – right side
Rt – right
Sl – slip
Sm – slip marker
Sl1-k1-psso – slip one st as if to k, k next st, pass the slipped st over the k st
St(s) – stitch(es)
Stockinette st – k every row in circular; k every RS row + p every WS row in straight.
WS – wrong side
Wt – weight
YO – yarn over

COPYRIGHT NOTICE:

Feel free to sell your finished shawls made from this pattern, however, please do not copy, alter, or sell the pattern itself. For each of your listings, you must include the following: “Pattern provided by Judy Jewell of The Autumn Acorn at http://www.theautumnacorn.etsy.com“.

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You can also purchase this pattern from The Autumn Acorn or Ravelry.

Let’s Begin The Free Cardigan Knitting Pattern

SLEEVES: (make two)

If not working with a magic knot yarn ball, but you would still prefer striped sleeves, change your yarn color every 12 rnds, or as desired.
Beg at cuff, using smaller needles and one strand of magic knot yarn ball plus one strand of mohair-silk held together as one, CO 60 (64, 68, 72, 76, 78, 80, 82, 84) sts.

CUFF:

Join to k in the rnd, pm to indicate BOR, *p1, k1tbl; rep from * until cuff measures approx. 1.25”/3cm from CO edge.

SLEEVES:

Change to larger needles, and k one rnd.
Now, work an inc rnd as indicated below:
Inc Rnd: K1, M1L, k to last st, M1R, k1.

Now, work an inc rnd every 8th (8th, 8th, 8th, 7th, 6th, 5th, 4th, 4th) rnd 14 (14, 15, 16, 18, 22, 26, 30, 29) times total, or until sleeve measures 16.5 (17, 17, 17.5, 17.5, 18, 18, 18.5, 18.5)” / 42 (43, 43, 44.5, 44.5, 45.5, 45.5, 47, 47)cm from CO edge.
30 (30, 32, 34, 38, 46, 54, 62, 60) total sts increased.
90 (94, 100, 106, 114, 124, 134, 144, 144) sts.
On last rnd, k to 7 (8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 14) sts before st marker, BO 14 (16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 28) sts for underarm, removing st marker as you do so.

MAIN BODY: (includes back panel and both front panels)

Hem Ribbing:

Beg at bottom of cardigan, using smaller needles plus one strand of MC yarn + one strand of mohair-silk held together, CO 188 (212, 236, 258, 284, 308, 332, 356, 380) sts.
*P1, k1tbl; rep from * until hem measures approx. 1.25”/3 cm from CO edge (or to match sleeve cuffs). Change to larger needles.

Body: (Throughout entire pattern, on ALL RS rows, slip first st as if to k and on ALL WS rows, slip first st as if to p.)
(RS): Sl first st kwise, k to end of row.
(WS): Sl first st pwise, p to end of row.
Rep last 2 rows until piece measures approx 13 (13.25, 13.5, 13.5, 13.5, 14.5, 14.5, 15, 15)” / 33 (33.5, 34.5, 34.5, 34.5, 37, 37, 38, 38) cm from cast on edge.

On last WS row, p 40 (45, 50, 54, 60, 65, 70, 75, 81) sts, pm, BO 14 (16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 28) sts, pm, p 80 (90, 100, 110, 120, 130, 140, 150, 162) sts, pm, BO 14 (16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 28) sts, pm, p 40 (45, 50, 54, 60, 65, 70, 75, 81) sts.

160 (180, 200, 218, 240, 260, 280, 300, 324) sts on needle

ATTACH SLEEVES/YOKE:

Explanation:

The sleeves are joined to the body by working the following sections all in one continuous row: first work most of the right front sts, then most of the sts around a sleeve, then the sts across the back of the body, then most of the sts around the other sleeve, and finally most of the sts from the left front. (See pictures at right.) Any unworked sts are located in the armpit area and will be seamed together later. You may find it necessary to put a gentle kink in the cord of your circular needle or introduce another needle to work around the tight corners created by the sleeve sts, at least for the first couple of rows of the yoke.

Instructions:

Line up sleeve bound off underarm sts with body bound off underarm sts so they are parallel to one another.
(Reminder: on all RS rows, continue to slip first st as if to k and on WS rows, slip first st as if to p.)

(RS): Using US size 3/3.25 mm circular needles with a very long cable, k across front rt body sts to the bound off rt underarm sts, pm, join sleeve to body by knitting around all sleeve sts, pm, k across back sts to the bound off lt underarm sts, pm, join second sleeve to body by knitting around all sleeve sts, pm, k across front lt body sts to end of row. 312 (336, 364, 390, 424, 460, 496, 532, 556) total sts.

Work back and forth in stockinette st over the body and sleeve sts for 20 (18, 16, 12, 8, 4, 0, 0, 0) rows, slipping markers as you reach them. End with a WS row.

Yoke Raglan Dec Section:

(RS): Reg Dec Row: K to 2 sts before first st marker, k2tog, sm, sl1-k1-psso, k to 2 sts before next st marker, k2tog, sm, sl1-k1-psso, k to 2 sts before next st marker, k2tog, sm, sl1-k1-psso, k to 2 sts before last st marker, k2tog, sm, sl1-k1-psso, k to end of row. (8 sts decreased ea row). 304 (328, 356, 382, 416, 452, 488, 524, 548) total sts.

(WS): P across all sts.
Rep last 2 rows 22 (25, 28, 31, 35, 39, 44, 48, 47) times ea/ 44 (50, 56, 64, 70, 78, 88, 96, 94) total rows. Sizes XS-4X, go to Back Neck Shaping.
128 (128, 132, 134, 136, 140, 136, 140, 172) total sts.

Sizes 5X ONLY:
(RS) Double Decrease Row: K to 5 sts before first st marker, k2tog, k1, k2tog, sm, sl1-k1-psso, k1, sl1-k1-psso, k to 5 sts before next st marker, k2tog, k1, k2tog, sm, sl1-k1-psso, k1, sl1-k1-psso, k to 5 sts before next st marker, k2tog, k1, k2tog, sm, sl1-k1-psso, k1, sl1-k1-psso, k to 5 sts before last st marker, k2tog, k1, k2tog, sm, sl1-k1-psso, k1, sl1-k1-psso, k to end of row. (16 sts decreased ea row). 156 total sts.

(WS): P across all sts.

Rep last 2 rows once more. 140 total sts.

Your yoke should measure approx. 8 (8.5, 9, 9.5, 9.75, 10.25, 11, 12, 12.25)” / 20 (22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 28, 30, 31) cm from underarm.

BACK NECK SHAPING: GERMAN SHORT ROWS: (or use your preferred method)

(RS): Step 1. K to 1st st marker and remove, k to 2nd st marker, sm, k to 5 sts before 3rd st marker.

Step 2. Turn your work so wrong side is facing.

(WS): Step 3. Slip the stitch from the left needle to the right needle pwise with yarn in front.

Step 4. Pull the yarn to the back of the work OVER TOP of the right needle. This will distort the stitch, making it look as if there are 2 stitches instead of 1. We call this stitch the Double Stitch.

Step 5. Bring the yarn to the front BETWEEN the needles to begin purling.

Step 6. Keeping a tighter tension than usual for the first few sts, p to 5 sts before next st marker.

(RS): Step 7. Turn your work so the right side is facing.

Step 8. Bring the yarn to the front BETWEEN the needles.

Step 9. Slip the stitch from the left needle to the right needle pwise with the yarn in front.

Step 10. Pull the yarn to the back of the work OVER top of the right needle. This will distort the stitch making it look as if there are 2 stitches instead of 1.

Step 11. K to the previous Double Stitch.

(WS): Turn your work so the wrong side is facing.

Rep steps 3, 4, 5 + 6 from above.

Continue in this fashion creating your Doubled Sts until you’ve worked 4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6) RS rows and 3 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5) WS rows (a total of 7 (7, 7, 9, 9, 9, 11, 11, 11) short rows) or until short row section measures approx 1 (1, 1, 1.25, 1.25, 1.25, 1.5, 1.5, 1.5)” / 2.5 (2.5, 2.5, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) cm.

PICKING UP THE WRAPS/DOUBLED STS:

(RS): K first Doubled st tog as if it was one st (like a k2tog), rep for next 3 Doubled sts, k to end of row, removing any remaining stitch markers.
(WS): P to the last 3 Doubled sts and p each Doubled st tog as if it was one st (like a p2tog), rep for next 2 Doubled sts, p to end of row.

NECK RIBBING:

(RS): *Using smaller circ needles and continuing to use one strand of MC yarn plus one strand of mohair-silk held together, *P1, k1tbl; rep from * back and forth until ribbing measures approx 1.5”/4 cm.
(For my size large sample, I worked 10 rows.)

BO all neck sts in p1, k1tbl using your favorite method (I used the “k1, sl the next st over the k st” method).

BUTTON BAND/RIBBING:

*For female cardigans, buttons are sewn onto the left side and buttonholes are sewn onto the right side.

RIGHT FRONT PANEL:

(RS): *Beg on RS of lower, rt front panel, using smaller needles and one strand of magic knot yarn ball yarn plus one strand of mohair-silk held together as one, pick up and knit sts all along the side of the rt front body (pick up a number of sts evenly divisible by 2). Approx. 92 (94, 98, 100, 102, 108, 110, 112, 114) total sts.

Ribbing:

*P1, k1tbl; rep from * across. Rep this row twice more for a total of 3 rows.

Buttonhole Row:

Position your buttons evenly along the button band with the top button being approx 1”/2.5 cm from top and the bottom button being approx 1”/2.5 cm from bottom. Place the other 3 buttons evenly between the first and last.

Place a safety pin in the place you want each buttonhole to be positioned. Now on a RS row, knit a buttonhole row by working a *YO, k2tog in each place you’d like a buttonhole to be placed. Continue in same manner across rest of row. Feel free to add on extra buttonholes if you’d like your cardigan to close tighter!

Ribbing:

*P1, k1tbl; rep from * across. For the first row after buttonhole row, when you reach each YO, knit the YO through the front as you normally would knit a k stitch.
Rep this row once more for a total of 3 rows, or until total ribbing on button band measures approx 3/4”/1.9 cm.
BO loosely in purl using Jeny’s Surprisingly Stretchy BO.

LEFT FRONT PANEL:

(RS): *Beg on RS of top, left front panel, using smaller needles and one strand of magic knot ball yarn plus one strand of mohair-silk held together as one, pick up and knit sts all along the side of the lt front body (pick up the same number of sts as for the rt side/evenly divisible by 2). Approx. 92 (94, 98, 100, 102, 108, 110, 112, 114) total sts.

Ribbing:

*P1, k1tbl; rep from * across. Rep this row 4x more for a total of five rows, or until total ribbing measures approx 3/4”/1.9 cm.
BO loosely in knit using Jeny’s Surprisingly Stretchy BO.

SEAMING UNDERARMS:

Seam the underarm sts using a darning needle and matching yarn.

FINISHING + BLOCKING:

Soak garment in warm water and mild detergent for 1-2 hours. Roll garment in towel to remove most of the water. Place damp garment on a flat surface, reshape and allow to dry fully. Sew on buttons using a sewing needle and matching thread across from each buttonhole. Weave in all loose ends.